Taking Photographs of Minerals and Gemstones
summary of gemstone lighting

The subject is a 14K yellow gold necklace with blue zircon. The follow shows 8 different lighting schemes deployed as they were described earlier. The lighting method is described on the left of each table, and the key points summarised on the right.

Method
Key Points

small diffuser **

inadequate diffusion

external lights only

external lights throw shadows

yellowish looking metal

zircon too dark

**

Method
Key Points

small diffuser

details crisp (scratches)

with supplementary flash

flash dominates and we see its shadows

brassy looking metal

zircon too dark

Method
Key Points

inverted bowl

smooth metal surface

rope light

yellowish/green metal

cloth background

good gem lighting

no shadows even light

Method
Key Points

inverted bowl

rough metal surface

rope light

yellowish/red metal

cloth background

ok gem lighting

with supplementary flash

shadows present

Method
Key Points

inverted bowl

soft metal surface

cloth background

strong yellow metal

room lights only

good gem lighting

no shadows present

Method
Key Points

inverted bowl

rough metal surface

cloth background

brassy metal

with supplementary flash

ok gem lighting

shadows present

Method
Key Points

inverted bowl

smooth metal surface

light box lighting (reverse)

yellow metal

felt background

best gem lighting/color

This would be my selection for best shot.

Method
Key Points

inverted bowl

rough metal surface

light box lighting (reverse)

good metal color

felt background

ok gem lighting

with supplementary flash

shadows present

Comments/Conclusions: When shooting photographs of gemstones, or jewelry, color is the most illusive property. If I were preparing materials for a catalog or for sale, then I would spend far more time getting colors accurate and very consistent. When I shoot my gemstones I try and get the color of the gemstone as close to the original as possible and do not worry whether the background is pushed to a different hue. I also tend to over blur the backgrounds because, to me, they have little or no importance other than showcasing the gem.

To really produce accurate color you would need to limit all lights that are illuminating the sample to one type of color source. In most of my photos there are 3 or 4 different sources of light that might come into play. The ceiling light (warm florescent), the flash (balanced I assume), the light box (fluorescent), the rope light (warm tungsten), and the halogen microscope lights.

Accurate and consistent color for gems and jewelry is properly accomplished in an enclosed light box. The box limits extraneous light from entering while providing a fixed illumination, color temperature, and probably good diffusion. These types of boxes are sold by GIA (Gemological Institute of America) and others. I have tried to show how to get good quality images with minimal effort and expense. I have also stressed the use of Digital Cameras rather than film cameras as they are inexpensive to operate and can be used over and over without the need for film processing.

I also want to stress that experimentation is half the fun of shooting most of these photographs. You can easily make diffusers from just about anything, and by using a digital camera and a computer, you can quickly try inventive techniques and modify them as needed without much cost. My bowl diffusers were purchased for $2.50 (set of four!), my rope light cost $5.95 (after Christmas sale), my light box was purchased mail order (WEB) for about $20, the remainder of the things can be purchased from JoAnn Fabric and any reasonably well supplied art store. (felt, cloth, colored paper, acetate, mylar, drafting vellum, etc.)

If you are not particularly interested in adapting a camera to a microscope, then there are a number of digital cameras that can be obtained for $200-$400 that have close focus or macro lenses. The lower cost Nikons can all focus to within a 1.6". The model 775 has a street price of about $250 with 2.1 Megapixels and a macro range as close as 1.6". (All images in this photo document were made with cameras of 2.1 Mega pixels or less.) To get information on a wide variety of digital cameras try the "Digital Photography Review" , "DCviews" , or "digital-photography/".

Camera Model

Closeup Focus Distance
Resolution
Avg. Street Price 6/2002

Canon A100

2"
1 mega pixel
$140

Canon S200

2"
2 mega pixel
$290

Canon S30

4"
3 mega pixel
$450

Nikon 775

1.6"
1 mega pixel
$250

Nikon 885

1.6"
3 mega pixel
$440

Nikon 2500

1.6"
2 mega pixel
$300

Olympus 510

8"
2 mega pixel
$250

Olympus C-700

4"
2 mega pixel
$360

Olympus C-2500L

0.8"
2.5 mega pixel
$525

Sony DSC-P9

3.9"
4 mega pixel
$575

Sony DSC-P31

3.9"
2 mega pixel
$210

Sony DSC-P30

1.2"
1 mega pixel
$210

Kodak DX3700

6"
3 mega pixel
$215

Kodak DX3900

2.8"
3 mega pixel
$290

Kodak DX3500

9"
2 mega pixel
$200

Minolta S304

6.3"
3 mega pixel
$420

Minolta E201

12"
2 mega pixel
$220

Minolta 2300

4"
2 mega pixel
$300

Fuji FinePix 2800

3.9"
2 mega pixel
$285

Fuji FinePix 2600

3.9"
2 mega pixel
$200

Fuji FinePix F401

3.9"
2 mega pixel
$400

I do not sell any cameras, but have compiled a short list to show the range of prices and the macro capability available in today's market place (6/2002). Most of the cameras in this list are well below $500. If you check on the cameras that run from $500 - $999 there are even more available and many focus down to under 1".

The prices listed were obtained in June of 2002 and should all continue to fall as time goes on. This is not intended to be a complete list nor will it be updated, it is simply a snap shot in time. The last page of this document is just a gallery of shots using the lighting techniques discussed in this document and some of the Photoshop techniques also explained earlier. ...enjoy

and get out there and experiment!